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 Move to Tune - up

 Move to Wax Protocol

 

Build your own travel survival kit :

 

Below is a table of four simple homemade kits I have used on ski/snowboard trips.

The Quick repair and wax kits have been invaluable for maintaining my skis and snowboards so I can continue the fun and thrills of riding when minor damages occurred such as rock gouges, impact and burrs on edges, binding adjustments, need for wax, etc.. 

The Edge Sharpening kit has been used mostly to polish and maintain my edges to make sure I can optimally ride the icy slopes.

The Quick Base Structure kit I used only once and worked on a friend's beat up skis but he appreciated it and said they never skied better. Otherwise I do not see a major need for this kit but put it in here just in case others may find it useful.  

 

Quick repairs kit

Quick Wax kit

Edge Sharpening kit

Base Structure kit

Lint free cloth *

Swiss Knife *

Med Grit Gummi Stone*

Med Grit Ceramic Stone

400 grit Emery cloth

Metal Scrapper

Base cleaner

P-tex candle

lighter

Philip Screw driver #1,2,3

Standard driver #1,2,3

Wrench set metric/standard

Allen wrench set met/std

Adjustable wrench

Pliers

 

*in pocket on slopes

Cotton stretch gloves

Lint Free Cloth*

Wax Bars (variety)*

Cork block*

Copper Brush

Acrylic Scrapper*

Fibertex/Scotch-brite pad*

Nylon Brush

Horse hair brush

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

* in pocket on slopes

Sharpie pen

Lint free cloth

File card

Base bevel guide

Edge bevel guide

File

Coarse Diamond stone

Medium Diamond stone

Fine Diamond stones

Medium ceramic stone

Fine ceramic stone

 

Base cleaner

Sanding block

silicone carbide sandpaper

120 -220 grits

80 – 60 grits

Omni-prep pad

Fibertex/Scotch-brite pad

 

 

Emergency Wax:

     When you realize that the equipment under your feet are not moving well, a bit grabby, fighting your turns or just making you work too hard it just maybe there isn’t enough wax there. For times like this use a small bar of ski wax, rub it on the bases after every few runs. It won't replace old hot wax but will get you by especially when some of that magic begins to return back in the next run down. The type of wax I carry in my pocket for this is either the "All temperature wax" or the "Spring Wax"; They are good all-purpose ski/board wax.

     Back at the vacation lodge If you can and have the tools and time do this quick fast wax job.  First clean the bottom of the skis with a lint free cloth. then brush the base with a copper brush to remove the remaining old dirty wax.  Now rub the wax on the base as even as possible, then cork the base vigorously, scrape off the wax with an acrylic plastic scrapper.  Then nylon brush it. if you have a horsehair brush then use it as final brush. Now you’re ready.

     If you find a hair dryer then after you copper brush the base, warm up the base with the hair dryer then rub on the wax, then heat the wax with the dryer then cork the base vigorously, scrape off the wax and nylon brush it. if you have a horsehair brush then use it as a final brush. Now you’re ready to explode.

 

End of Ride Day:

     As a basic practice for a good equipment hygiene we recommend wiping down the ski or snowboard after each day of riding with a clean cloth, preferably a lint free soft cloth.  Wipe the whole equipment dry and clean. This will minimize rusting of edges, reduce the grime penetration on the base and extend binding function. 

     After each ski or board day clean the base bottom with a copper brush.  The Copper brush is the softest brush available. It does everything that any other metal brush does (remove wax, any hardened residue on the base, and dirt) except create structure therefore it does not create micro-plastic hairs that will slow the ski down, especially in powder snow. Therefore, the Copper brush is used for general wax removal. If a hard cold wax is used for its removal follow with nylon brush as well as for removal of an HF wax in very dirty snow where it is critical to remove all paraffin based wax out of the base. Don't forget to wax the board before ou go out and ride.

 

Maintain Edges:

     A good policy is to check your edges for deburr or work-harden areas or rust on your edges and remove them right after they occur or after each day of riding and at the very least before every waxing of your ski or board. The pressure and heat of impact on the edge causes the metal to become “work-hardened” and files just slips right over the area subsequently too hard to cut with a file. Stones either a ceramic or diamond stone can soften the work-harden metal. A Grey Gummy  (coarse) stone is great for removing rust as well as burrs. Emery cloth also works well.